First stop: Oxford Street. From there we rambled towards Carnaby Street: an alley for fashion junkies and design addicts. The shops had familiar names, international brands and colourful shopwindows. An amazing store sold hats of all sorts and fashions: from classic black and white NY branded baseball cap to green and grey tartan berets. I felt like Alice in Wonderland once again. Consumerism and the universe of choice. Shelves that were literally vomiting goods overhung me. And then we had a sushi meal in a lovely shop that sold all kinds of whole food: cheesecakes, cereals, cookies, juices, chocolate bars, jams, bread and more.
Next stop: we randomly arrived in Trocadero and saw a massive billboard: "Ripley's Museum: Believe it or Not". What's that? We crossed the street and checked it out. The gift shop was any kid's bonanza: an endless choice of sweets -coke jujubes, liquorice wheels, chocolate-coated nuts, lollipops-, pointless goodies and books of long-fogotten memorabilia. The bright colours gave me a thrill of excitement and I felt like a child again. A wonderful feeling. But there's a price to happiness. We bought two tickets for the museum -f***ing expensive!- and crossed our fingers hoping for the best.
After queuing and wondering how much time of our lives we waste queuing (at the bank, at the post office, in the tube, in the museum and so on), we entered. First impression: not worth it. But as we moved forward we realised that the museum had some interesting things to offer. Human's fascination for the wacky, the weird, the bizzarre has some intriguing allure in its obsessiveness. Why are we so attracted to the eccentric, to the extravagant, to the unexplicable? Is it just a healthy anthropological curiosity of others' cultures and skills? Is it a self-reassuring means of looking at our own lives? Is it a self-comforting tool to appreciate our relative "normality", "sanity" better? Do we need the extreme to enjoy the common?
Whatever the reason, there were loads of peculiar stuff in this strange collection. A loads of stimula and topics to talk about with my fellow adventurer. Agoraphobic artist Enrique Ramos made the best of the time he spent barricaded home by meticulously crafting paintings out of the bodies of dead butterflies or pieces of stamps from all over the world. J.F. Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe proved excellent models for his imaginary world of self-imposed conviction. His extraordinary creativity topped by a sprinckle of folly went so far that he reproduced Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper on a grain of rice. His miniatures of the Royal Family were stunning.
In this temple of freaks we could see humankind's recklessness at its utmost: screenings of people without limbs, crazy stuntmen that could carry a rickshaw attached to their eyelids, dying carpenters that carved their own testament wood statue and stuck on it their own hair, fingernails and brows. It makes you shiver and consider how hard it is to make a sense out of our lives. Among the size-freaks -the tallest and the fattest men ever alive- I had the chance to take part in this wondrous fair and became a freak myself. A two-way mirror tricked me as I played games with my tongue (wonder of wonders, I can double fold it, flower fold it and make it forked like a snake)...to the amusement of the visitors on the other side.
A light-blue wax head of a Chinese reminded me of Lupin from1980's movie Big Trouble in Little China, the model of a Wolf Man reminded me of Fur, the film based on photographer Diane Arbus's life. All my childhood's paranoid thoughts suddenly bubbled up: the clown from IT, the Oompa-Lumpas from 1971's Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory and, as I wandered in the Mirror Maze, the villain from The Wizard of Oz that removed and changed head on her whim. This labyrinth of memorabilia might be as well a House of Horrors in a theme park. The line that separates the marvellous from the dreadful is extremely thin.
The museum revealed also an anthropology section. I marvelled at a penis sheath from somewhere exotic and even more at the shrunken skulls from the Amazon. I felt uneasiness at the sight of girls pulling down the level of a fake electric chair and laughing hard at the painful cries of the the condemned dummy. They took photos and repeated the scene more than once. An eerie scene, indeed. This deadly tool invented by a wicked dentist was used only in the US and in Indonesia. The girls probably didn't grasp the reality lying behind. I sighed at the thought that the death penalty was abolished back in 1889 in Italy. Is this civilization?
The best part of the museum was the very last attraction: a passage through a blue rolling tube crammed with iridescent yellow and pink dots. The score reveals the character of the experience: Born Slippy by the Underworld from the film Trainspotting. You are walking straight but the tube around you spins so fast that you feel dizzy, stumble, lean on the handrail. You feel like a junkie and it's just a psychological reaction. For the weak ones, a chicken run is also available.
After the museum we went back to Oxford Street. The crowd of buyers that, hands on their pockets, fill every single shop make me wonder and brood over the meaning of life: what's the point in working all week to spend the saturday in stores to give away the money? Stuff, stuff, stuff. I see cash and punds and credit cards and bank withdrawals all around. And grumpy people. Spellbound people. People in chains. Educated, smart people that run around in circle and are fettered to capitalism. Are they happy? I doubt it. They have it all and don't have nothing.
My date was a Nigerian-born Englishman that never saw a shooting star. Is there such a thing? On a lucky day in summertime a couple of years ago I went on the mountains and saw 43 shooting stars in a row. He never saw one in his whole life. 43 free wishes to express in one night. Here in London, wishes are coins cast in tiny fountains or thrown in a sham blackhole.
We went in a massive sportswear store, the cathedral of capitalism. Consuming consuming consuming. My friend's thinking is all about making money. Figures, business, profit. The mindset in this country is very enterpreneurial. Which is great. People are prompted to think with their own brains, to take risks to set up a company. And who fails falls out of the game. It's no wonder that Charles Darwin, father of the evolutionary theory, was English. You play the game, you gamble. If you're fit you survive. Otherwise you die. Such a theory could have never been conceived in a Catholic country. I reckon my Catholic frame of mind despite my lack of faith in God. Charity to us (Italians) has a totally different meaning than here. Charity comes along with humility and sharing. And despite the grandeur of the Vatican, everyday people are really out there to help and be close to others. In Britain charity means fund raising, expensive dinners and celebrities' sponsorship. Max Weber's theory that capitalism and protestantism are intertwined is dawning on me as clear as it has never been before.
Walking back home at around 9pm we met some kids. They looked 8 to me. I wanted to investigate. My friend suggested that he should go. He asked them about their age. They were 11, four of them. Eating crisps, cycling, hanging around. They asked him why he was asking. He made up some excuses. They were flippant, defiant. They smelt the bullshit and didn't want to be fooled. They said something about their favourite football team. I gaped at them. Street smart kids. Too young to be so angry, so aggressive, though. I felt much more innocent than them, much more naive, and I am twice as old. What kind of childhood are they living? What are their aspirations? What can they expect out of their lives? Who takes care of them? Being here makes me fancy about becoming a teacher. My caring side emerges every now and then. There are too many brats these days.